Wednesday 13 February 2008

alex


Beyond Cairo, the delta spreads out like a giant flower head segmented by branches and channels of the Nile. The delta plain is fertilised by tons of alluvial deposits from the river and is cultivated with such care that it looks like a vast kitchen garden. Cotton, rice, fruit, vegetables and flowers constitute the wealth of this region. At the edge of the desert, extensive cultivation is developing on land stolen from the sand. The ancient capitals of Sais and Tanis have disappeared without trace giving way to villages and towns crowned with mosques and bustling with life from morning until dusk.
This was the site of the small fishing village of Rakotis when the glory of the pharaohs was at its height. Alexander the Great, on his arrival in Egypt, wanted to make it his capital and to leave a lasting imprint on Egypt’s coast. The city of Alexandria was born and for several centuries its lighthouse, the first ever in the world, cast its light over the Mediterranean Sea. Capital of arts and learning and favoured by kings, queens, scholars and men of letters, Alexandria provided a refuge for one of the most famous passionate love affairs of all time, that of Anthony and Cleopatra. Following the Arab conquest, when Alexandria lost is status as capital in favour of Cairo, the city retained its distinctive habit of looking more towards the Mediterranean than towards Egypt. With its wealth of Greek, Jewish and Armenian communities and as the preferred haunt of foreigners, Alexandria seemed to turn her back on the hinterland. Although few descendants of these communities still remain today, the city has retained a special atmosphere from that period in its history. A walk along the corniche is not to be missed. The Egyptian crowds have regained possession of Alexandria from foreigners. The city is now the preferred holiday destination of city dwellers from Cairo. Families and sweethearts stroll along the sweeping curve of the corniche enjoying an ice cream. Baskets of freshly caught fish and shellfish are on display. Old men mend their nets dreaming of Marseille “where the fish jump out of the water of their own accord”. In short, everyone in their own way makes the most of life along the corniche.

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